Showing posts with label uk. Show all posts
Showing posts with label uk. Show all posts
Monday 16 June 2014
Thursday 13 February 2014
EXCLUSIVE: THOM SWEENEY by Mr. Porter
London has a rich and unrivalled sartorial
history, and while its famous Savile Row remains the epicentre of the
traditional tailoring culture, the flame of contemporary elegance burns
brightest in a less celebrated corner of Mayfair. Working from a former art
gallery near Oxford Street, Messrs Luke Sweeney and Thom Whiddett run Thom
Sweeney, London's coolest bespoke tailors. This season the duo have produced
their first ever ready-to-wear collection, which is exclusively available from
MR PORTER.
"We started the business in January
2007," remembers Mr Sweeney. "Before that we both worked for [the
tailor] Timothy Everest in the East End." Mr Whiddett explains the duo's
original intentions: "We wanted to have a bespoke tailoring house, looking
after our clients with great service and great clothes." Key to their
success is the fact that the suits are cut in a shape that's more relevant and contemporary than those
produced by most bespoke tailors. "Our guys don't want to walk down the
street in cropped trousers or with a jacket that stops half-way down their
back," says Mr Whiddett. "But they still want to look modern and
cool. Our clients wear our suits at work, but also to [exclusive Mayfair clubs]
5 Hertford Street and The Arts Club. And because of the way they're cut you
could also go to Shoreditch House [in London's fashionable East End], because
it doesn't look like a boring city suit."
All around Thom Sweeney's bespoke shop
there are images of style icons from the past, men such as Messrs Frank
Sinatra, Steve McQueen and Sir Sidney Poitier. However, the tailors use these
old shots as a springboard that propels them forward, rather than a weight that
holds them back. Mr Whiddett explains, "If an image still looks current
then that says something about the guy in the shot, and the guy who made the
clothes. But there isn't one old look that's just spot on, it's always about
the proportions - the width of the trousers affects the size of the lapels. Our
look is current without being edgy." It's a look that appeals to many
high-profile Londoners, most notably Mr David Beckham who wore a Thom Sweeney
suit when he piloted the Olympic flame down the River Thames en route to the
opening ceremony of the 2012 Games.
From left: Messrs Sweeney and Whiddett
Among the things that sets Thom Sweeney
apart from London's classic tailors is that the clothes the firm makes reflect
modern life better than the traditional
pinstripes-all-week-and-tweed-all-weekend dichotomy that still seems to inform
much of Savile Row. Mr Sweeney explains, "We guide a lot of guys for what
they're going to wear at the weekend and in the evening - people want to look
better in the evening than they do in the office." Thom Sweeney also
caters for the growing number of men who like to wear separate jackets and
trousers, even on formal occasions. "Separates are a big deal at the
moment," says Mr Sweeney. "It can look great if you get it right,
with a double-breasted blazer and trousers. One of our best customers is often
in separates from nine-to-five, but come the evening he's in a mohair suit and
a tie."
Talking of mohair, which is made with yarn
created from the hair of Angora goats, it's an important part of Thom Sweeney's
superb dinner jacket. "The tux is really important to us," says Mr
Sweeney. "We make a lot of tuxes for our clients. Whether you wear it once
a year, or 10 times a year, it's something you need in your wardrobe. Every
time we've made one for a bespoke client he's come back and said, 'I wish I'd done it
earlier'. When you go to black tie events people notice." Mr Whiddett is
equally evangelical, "If you've got a few good suits already and you come
to an event where you want to dress up, there's nothing smarter."
However, people also notice what a man
wears at the weekend, which is why Thom Sweeney makes casual trousers and
blazers. "We've done navy blue cotton chinos," explains Mr Whiddett,
"with a slim leg, so you can dress them down with a polo shirt and
sneakers. The main difference between the casual pieces and the formal jackets
is that for the casual jackets we softened up the shoulders with a flat sleeve
head, so they're a bit easier to wear." In fact soft shoulders are a Thom
Sweeney signature, as well as a defining feature of most of what's good in contemporary
tailoring. Mr Sweeney explains how the house block was developed, "The
shoulder line's a bit softer than you get on Savile Row, but we still keep the
roped sleeve head. It has presence, but it's soft to wear."
These details have been taken directly from
the handmade suits and put into the new collection. Mr Whiddett explains the
rationale behind the ready-to-wear range, "It's in line with the bespoke,
right down to the way it sits on the shoulder."
Monday 27 January 2014
8 Best Free Fitness/Gym Apps For iOS
Every body likes fit people either if it's a woman or a man. It's healthy and looks good. Also you can make everything you wear work with a fit body.
So here are some cool fitness/gym apps for iOS.
PS: As an advice (please) do not look like you are inflated. Just keep your shape.
Abs Workout
7 min workout challenge is still
showing as £1.49 in the App Store, but if you download the Apple Store app,
it's available for free from the home page. You just redeem a code. - Until Feb 2014
Add caption |
Friday 10 January 2014
27 Unspoken Suit Rules Every Man Should Know
- The width of the tie should match the width of the lapel. It’s all about BALANCE.
- In general, thin lapels are more modern. Wide lapels are more old-school, Mad Men style. So choose your look accordingly.
- A pocket square adds an extra level of polish, but make sure it doesn’t match your tie in either pattern or fabric choice. Before you go totally conservative, remember that the pocket square is where you get the most freedom and the one place you get to add a little pizzazz to your suit.
- When buying an off-the-rack suit, the number one thing to check is how the shoulders fit. Shoulder pads should end at the shoulders. The shoulders are the hardest to tailor, so make sure they don’t stick out or stick up.
- A collar gap between your jacket’s lapels and your shirt’s collar can signify an ill-fitting jacket.
- Opt for a charcoal or gray suit over black, unless you’re attending a funeral. Dark gray is more versatile and goes with more colours.
- Your belt should be fairly thin and the same colour as your shoes. Union Made makes really great belts in a variety of leather and metal finishes.
- You should match your shoes to the colour of your suit using this guide:
- Double vents in the back are more modern and fashionable.
- For a more casual, trendy look, opt for a single-button peak-lapel jacket.
- If you’re going for more formal business attire, opt for a double-button, notched lapel jacket.
- The Savile Row Fold keeps your dress pants
from falling off the hanger.
- You should be able to slip your hand between your chest and your buttoned jacket such that it feels snug, but with room to move.
- Always unbutton your suit before sitting down, or you risk ruining it.
- The top button of a two-button (or the middle button of a three-button) should fall at or above the navel.
- Always go with the classic windsor knot for your tie, but use the size of your head to determine whether you should go half or full windsor.
- If you’re wearing a vest, always keep the bottom button unbuttoned. But plenty of men break this rule and are still able to pull off the three-piece beautifully.
- There are practical reasons for vests beyond just how they look. A vest is best worn with single-breasted suits (so it’s actually visible). if you’re going to be wearing your suit in a cold climate, a vest can add a lot of warmth. It also adds a formal touch to your suit.
- Sleeve cuffs should be exposed about half an inch. For a harmonious look, try to match the visible cuff length to the amount of collar that is visible at the back of the neck.
- When you get your suit home, you’ll need a seam ripper or a small, sharp pair of scissors. Unstitch the jacket’s pockets, remove the tack stitches from the jacket’s vents, and remove the little embroidered label from the jacket’s left sleeve. Do this very carefully to ensure you don’t actually rip the fabric or neighboring threads.
- Make sure that your socks are long enough that there’s no exposed leg when sitting down.
- Your tie should always be darker than your dress shirt.
- The suit jacket should be just long enough to cover your pants zipper and butt.
- Your tie should JUST reach the waistband of your trousers, or be slightly shorter.
- For a more fashion-forward look, the trouser hem should hit right at the top of your shoe.
- If you sweat a lot, wear an undershirt. Preferably one with a deep neck so it doesn’t peek through. Nothing will cheapen the appearance of a suit more than a glimpse of undershirt.
- Finally, go for the dimple. The dimple is the little hollow beneath the knot of your tie, and it gives a slightly disheveled yet polished appearance to your finished look.
Thursday 25 July 2013
The style of the other brother: Prince Harry
I know that we are all talking about the royal baby recently. Before that, we were all talking about the royal wedding. It has been all about Prince William.
But there is a hidden fact. (May be not
that hidden). If I ask women; Prince William or Prince Harry majority would choose
Prince Harry.
Why? I don’t know either. There is
something about him. Scientist couldn’t explain why women find bad guys more
attractive either. I’m not saying that the little prince is a bad guy. I’m just
saying that he has that look. There is his signature cheeky grin and eyes that
twinkle with trouble.
The way he looks is different from the way
Prince William looks. That’s a fact!
Prince Harry has a classic sense of style
but he makes them look trendy more than classic. Not shabby at all! Although
Prince Harry has made more headlines for what he hasn’t worn (Vegas) the way he
dresses or carry the outfits are different from his big brother. He knows how
to choose a colour. It’s easy to say blue and khaki are his colours and he uses
them a lot. From his polo gear to his military ensemble, he looks pretty great
in uniform too.
“No one has ever made a collared shirt and
chinos look so good—except Ryan Gosling.” said a Mamamia reader who met him in
a night club.
The messy haircut is his thing.
Button Down Shirts (He prefers no pattern shirts or checkered shirt) |
Button Down Shirts (He prefers no pattern
shirts or checkered shirt), half-zip sweaters and tuxedo are the others! When we see him in a fitted men’s suit there
is no tie usually. Hoodies are the essentials for his street look.
The prince was spotted shopping in the TK
Maxx branch in Kensington High Street, Central London, on May but he doesn’t
shop from TK Maxx anymore.
He is a prince with charming eyes and an
attitude. It would be ok whatever he wears, right?
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